Mt. Nun Expedition 7135m

25 Days

Mt. Nun (7,135 m) is the highest peak in the Zanskar Range of Ladakh, making it one of the top 7000-meter climbs in the Indian Himalayas. Paired with its twin peak, Mt. Kun (7077 m), and separated by a 4 km high-altitude snow plateau, Mt. Nun dominates the skyline of the Suru Valley.

Mt. Nun’s imposing pyramid of rock, snow, and ice offers a rich mix of classic alpine climbing, exposed ridge lines, and technical ice climb. It serves as the ultimate training ground for mountaineers preparing to tackle the world’s 8000 meter giants.

While much of the Himalayas experiences heavy monsoon rains during the summer, Ladakh sits in a rain-shadow zone. Mt. Nun offers stable weather, clear skies, and prime snow conditions from June to early September. At Hi On Life Adventures, safety comes first. Led by certified Climbing Guides with a strict 1:2 guide-to-client ratio, dedicated support crew, and conservative strategy, we provide the foundation you need to push your limits safely.

Early Exploration of Mt. Nun (1898–1906)

Arthur Neve first surveyed the Mt. Nun massif in 1898. In 1906, explorers Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband, William, mapped the glacier system. Fanny set a high-altitude record for women on the nearby peak, Kun.

First Ascent of Mt. Nun (1953)

A mixed French, Swiss, Indian, and Sherpa team made the first summit of Mt. Nun on August 28, 1953. Expedition leader Claude Kogan made history on this climb, becoming one of the first women to lead and summit a major Himalayan peak.

Who is the Mt. Nun Expedition For?

Mt Nun is the ultimate gateway into high-altitude mountaineering, bridging the gap between trekking peaks and 8000-meter giants, while refining your core alpine skills on serious, multi-pitch ice.

This climb is built for:

  • Experienced 6,000m Climbers: Mountaineers who have summitted peaks like Island Peak, Mera Peak, Lobuche East, or Aconcagua, and are ready to cross the 7,000m threshold.
  • Aspiring 8,000m Mountaineers: Anyone preparing for Everest, or any other 8000m+ peaks, who needs essential high-altitude experience and confidence above 7,000 meters.
  • Technical Alpine Enthusiasts: Climbers comfortable with crampons, ice axes, fixed ropes, and navigating 50°–70° ice walls, crevasses, and exposed ridges.
  • Summer Expeditions: Mountaineers looking for optimal alpine conditions during June to early September, taking advantage of Ladakh’s dry summer rain-shadow window.

Prerequisites:

To join Mt Nun Expedition, you need prior 6000m+ climbing experience, solid technical ice/snow skills (jumar and abseil proficiency), and high cardiovascular endurance for 14 to 16 hour summit days.

Summary of the Expedition

Approach:

The journey begins at New Delhi, where the team report at the Indian Mountaineering Federation’s headquarters for the briefing of our Mt. Nun Expedition and meet with our Liaison Officers.

A 60 min scenic mountain flight flying above the Indian Himalaya brings us the Ladakhi capital of Leh. We spend a few days for sightseeing and acclimatizing around Leh.

Then drive to Tangol in Kargil district from where we start our trek to base of Mt Nun.

The Climb:

Base Camp (4,600m) to Camp 1 (5,400m)

Scrambling, Fixed Ropes & 45°–50° Ice Wall with short pitches of 60° climb which requires front point climbing.

Camp 1 (5600m) to Camp 2 (6000m)

Glacier Traverse & Gradual Incline.A steady, low-impact day crossing the glacier with hidden crevasse hazards. Finishes with a short 30-minute climb to Camp 2, uniquely perched on a rocky outcrop with fresh running water.

Camp 2 (6000m) to Camp 3/ Summit Camp (6400m)

Fixed Ropes, Steep Pitches and front point climbing- A highly focused 400m vertical ascent up steep slopes averaging 45°–50° with 60° pitches. Camp 3 sits on an exposed high platform below the headwall.

Camp 3 (6,400m) to Summit (7,135m) & Return

50°–60° pitches of Ice Climb and Exposed Summit Ridge- A midnight summit push over steep, technical blue ice. The reward at the peak is a breathtaking 360-degree panorama extending across the Karakoram range with K2, Himalayan range and valleys of Zanskar and Kargil.

Technical Difficulty & Grade

This Expedition is graded IV C. You can read more about our grading system here Grading

Key Challenges:

Steep Ice Wall: Continuous fixed-line ascending with jumars and technical crampon climbing.

High-Altitude Exposure: Sustained technical work above 6,000 meters demands rigorous physical endurance and rapid acclimatization.

Long summit climb: A good 14 to 16 hours round trip Camp 3- Summit- Camp 2

What makes this trip special

  • Reach Your First 7000m Summit: Stand atop the highest peak in the Zanskar Range
  • Experience a dynamic mix of glacier navigation, snow and ice walls, fixed-rope sections, and sharp ridge lines.
  • Prime 8000m Preparation: Build crucial high-altitude confidence and technical competence for giants like Everest and Manaslu.
  • Unmatched Safety Standard: Benefit from a personalized 1:2 guide-to-client ratio, comprehensive Base Camp infrastructure, and a custom acclimatization schedule.
  • Experience the magical landscapes and cultures of Ladakh

You can send your enquiry via the form below.

Mt. Nun Expedition 7135m

Trip Info

  • 3500 m
  • 7135m
  • July till September
  • Hotels and camping