Nun Peak Expedition 7135m

28 Days

Mt. Nun is the culmination of the Nun Kun mountain massif which comprises of two peaks: Mt. Nun, 7,135 m (23,409’) and its neighbour peak Mt. Kun, 7,077 m (23,218ft). These two peaks are separated by a snowy plateau of about 4 km in length. This Nun Kun massif is located near the Suru valley, about 250 km east of Srinagar, the capital of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir.
The first ascent of Nun was in 1953 by a French mountaineer Mrs. Claude Kogan and Mr. Pierre Vittoz, a Swiss missionary residing in Leh Ladakh.

The base camp of Mt. Nun is most conveniently accessed from the road connecting Kargil and Leh. The route to Base Camp starts at the head of the Shafat glacier which is at 4400m. The ascent is a moderate snow and ice route suitable for those with previous climbing experience of any of the 6000m trekking peaks in the Himalaya.

Summary of the Expedition

After arriving at New Delhi, team reports at the Indian Mountaineering Federation’s headquarters for the briefing of our Mt. Nun Expedition and meet with our Liaison Officers.

A 90 min scenic mountain flight flying above the Indian Himalaya brings us the Ladakhi capital of Leh. We spend a few days for sightseeing and acclimatizing around Leh, followed by four days of trek through Hemis National Park to acclimatize and tone up before our journey to the base camp of our mountain.

The journey to Nun Peak Base Camp begins with a drive through the Suru Valley. A 5 hour trek from the last village, Tangol, brings us to the base camp of Mt. Nun.  A couple of rest days are utilized at Base Camp for acclimatization. Once settled, the acclimatization rotation begins to Camps 1 and 2 before finally setting up our Summit Camp at 6400m, during which higher camps are set up. The final Summit push begins with a traverse on 40° – 60° ice for about 300m to access the west ridge. After gaining the west ridge, the route follows the ridge on 300 m of 40° – 50° snow. We climb on fixed ropes as the summit ridge is fairly sharp. After summit, we return to Camp 3.

The next couple of days we utilize for packing up base camp and drive back to Leh, from where we fly out to New Delhi.

What makes this trip special

  • Climb the highest peak in Zanskar and Kargil regions of Ladakh
  • Semi-technical ascent to break the 7000m barrier
  • Perfect training for future climbs to 8000 meter mountains.
  • Travel to a remote section of the Himalaya- Buddhist culture, ancient monasteries, local cuisine, and historic townships along the ancient Silk Highway.
  • Trek through Hemis National Park- the realm of the Snow Leopard
  • Experience the magical landscapes of Ladakh

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Nun Peak Expedition 7135m

Trip Info

  • 3500 m
  • 7135m
  • July till September
  • Hotels and camping