Manaslu Expedition

About Manaslu Expedition

Manaslu region

This region provides a rich variety of landscape and vegetation as it comprises sub-tropical Himalayan foothills to arid Trans-Himalayan high pastures bordering Tibet, covering six climatic zones. The Manaslu valley is also a sanctuary to many highly endangered animals, including Snow leopards and Pandas. Over 110 species of birds, 33 mammals, 11 butterflies and 3 reptiles have been recorded in this area. An estimated 1,500-2,000 plant species grow here of which many are valued as medicinal herbs and aromatic plants.

Program

Mt. Manaslu is the most accessible 8,000 meter peak in Nepal. Technically it is slightly more difficult than Cho Oyu, but relatively easier than any other 8000m peaks.
Hi On Life Expeditions operates Manaslu Expedition during the autumn climbing season, over a 40 day period.

The trip starts in Kathmandu where we spend a couple of nights, during which we will do a full kit check with the team, attend briefings at the Department of Tourism and a last minute shopping to buy any equipment that may still be needed.

From Kathmandu we take a jeep ride to Machha Khola and start a 10 day trek to Manaslu base Camp. At Samagaon we have a few days rest for acclimatization, while our crew ferries gears and set up our Base Camp. After being well acclimatized and rested, we head off to base Camp, which involves a 4-5 hour trek along a steep trail through a forest next to the hanging glaciers and ice falls.

The climb

We ascend via the North East Face, utilizing four camps along the way. During the entire climb from Base Camp to the summit our team of Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail and make every effort to assist the group with the objective to reach the summit.

From Base Camp to Camp 1: The trek from Base Camp to Camp 1 involves climbing over grassy slopes, rock slabs and moraine until we reach crampon point. From here we follow a crevassed glacier with small ice steps to Camp 1 at 5500m. We climb the last part of the climb to Camp 1 on fixed lines.

Camp 1 to Camp 2: Involves climbing through steep slopes on fixed lines and is expected to take between from 5 to 7 hours to arrive at Camp 2 at 6,300m. The views from camp 2 really are breath taking, and the peak of the mountain gets visibly closer.

Camp 2 to Camp 3: Straight forward climb snow slope with gentle gradient. It takes roughly 3 hours to reach Camp 3 which is at 6700m.

Camp 3 to Camp 4: Involves 550m of strenuous climbing on steep slopes relying on the fixed ropes which takes around 4 hours before you reach Camp 4 at 7,450m.

Camp 4 to Summit: Summit day will start around midnight and the climb should take about 6-7 hrs. The climbing itself is not technical. The first part of the climb in the dark ascends gradually with short head walls. Soon we reach the false summit where we take a good break, change Oxygen if required and then climb the last part to the summit on an exposed ridge. The views are unforgettable.
After the summit, we descend to Camp 2 and the following day to base Camp for a well-earned celebration. A day is spent packing up Base Camp then we trek down to Samagaon from where we take a helicopter back to Kathmandu.

On the Mountain

We have highly experienced Climbing Sherpas, and we provide one climbing Sherpa to one climbers. Our Sherpas will fix the route, set up the higher camps, as well as carry the group equipment, such as tents, stoves, food etc. They also help with high altitude equipment transport, carrying your extra weight both up and down the mountain. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the climb.

Cooks and Food 

Our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh meat as well, tinned fruits, tinned meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst) and a high dose of carbohydrates from breads, rice and pastas. We have weatherproof kitchens and heated dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables.

Recommendations for things you should bring:

Clothing:

Head 

• Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears
• Balaclava
• Sunhat
• Glacier sunglasses with side shields, 1 pair ski goggles 
• Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
• Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions

Upper Body

• 2 cotton t-shirts
• 2-3 polypropylene t-shirt
• 2-3 long sleeve thermal underwear shirts, medium weight
• 2  heavy thermal underwear
• 1 polar fleece jacket
• 1 thin light weight down or primaloft jacket
• 1 expedition weight polar fleece jacket (we provide)
• Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable
• Down Suit

Hands

• 1 pair lightweight poly-liner gloves
• 1 pair medium weight gloves
• 1 pair down mittens

Lower Body 

• 1 pair walking shorts
• 1 to 2 pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp
• 1 pair Gore-Tex trousers, Waterproof/breathable with side zips
• 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
• 2 pair heavy or expedition weight thermal bottoms
• 1 pair light weight down/ duvet trousers for Base Camp

Feet

• 1 pair climbing boot for 8000m (you can also hire them in Kathmandu)
• 1 pair treking /walking boots with good ankle support
• 1 pair trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp;
• 1 pair down booties (optional)
• 3 pair heavy preferably wool socks
• 4 to 5 pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool
• 3 pair medium lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool

Down Suit

If you are not comfortable with down suits, you can bring separate expedition weight down jacket and down trouser set. However, we highly recommend you to bring down suit.

Sleeping 

• We provide -30C North face Inferno sleeping bags. If you wish to use your own, you are welcome to bring your personal sleeping bag.

Please note: We provide Exped down mattress and kari mats (You dont need to bring your own)

Rucksack and Travel Bags

• 1 medium rucksack (50-70 litres)
• Small padlocks for duffel kit bags.

Please note: We provide you 2 big duffel bags.

Personal Food for camps beyond Advanced Base Camp.

We ask each member to bring their own imported daily snack and energy foods for higher camps. We recommend you to bring 8 to 10 packets of Turmat or equivalent quality freeze dried food of your choice of flavors. In addition, growing variety of imported foods such as cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices.

Accessories

• 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit
• 1 compass or GPS (optional)
• Camera
• Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are useful also
• 3 Water bottles (1 litre)
• 1 plastic cup and spoon
• 1 small folding knife
• Books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, games, musical instrument etc
• Adequate amount of batteries, etc.

Healthy and trouble free holiday

There are no compulsory vaccinations required for entering Nepal. However please consult a doctor for vaccination against Typhoid, Meningitis, polio, and hepatitis. If you have special dietary requirements or allergies, please through your agent, give us a list of what you can
and can’t eat so that we can provide proper food for you.

If you are undergoing a course of prescription medicine, please ensure that you have sufficient supplies for the entire holiday. Some types of drugs including antimalarials have side affects at high altitude; therefore please consult your doctors regarding these drugs. The places you trek are mosquito free and there has been no report on malaria in Kathmandu for the past couple of decades.

Insure yourself

Hi On Life Adventures strictly follow the policy, No Insurance= No expedition! We highly recommend you to take a comprehensive Personal Travel Insurance with Rescue before leaving home. It is mandatory that your insurance covers helicopter evacuation, even above 6000 m and incase of unforeseen incident they should cover long line rescues.

Money Matters

The ideal currency to bring with you is US$ or Euro. There are Atm machines in Kathmandu where you can draw money as per your bank limit.

In Kathmandu: Each meal will cost around 5 to 8 US$. Plus 10 to 20 US $ for your taxis if you wish to go around the city.

On trek: you will need around 5 to 6 US $ per day. This money is for your hot showers, chocolates, soft drinks and beers etc and also for small donations in the monasteries.

Tipping

Although tipping is entirely optional and personal matter the following is recommended as a guideline

In Kathmandu: for bellboys, waiters and airport porters- 100 Nepali Rupees

On the trek: At the end of the trek it is a customary to tip the field staff. The recommended amount is 250 to 300 US$ / member. Your Guide will organize that for you.

Please Note: Climbing Sherpa Bonus is mandatory which is 1500 USD as a summit bonus for your Sherpa who will accompany you to the summit, wether you summit or not.

Some Do’s and Don’ts

Nepalese people treat visitors as special guests. Although they will never rebuke you publicly for unknowingly offending them, we must consider their culture.

While in Nepal please observe the following:

• Full or partial nudity is not accepted.
• Over display of affection between men and women, especially in temples and monasteries are discouraged.
• Please remove your shoes before entering monasteries and temples.
• Never point the soles of your feet at a person or shrine.
• Many Hindu temples are closed to non-Hindus. Please ask before entering.
• Locals walk around the Mani walls and Stupas in a clockwise direction as a respect and they expect you to do the same although it is not compulsory.

“TODAY IS YOUR DAY! YOUR MOUNTAIN IS WAITING, SO… GET ON YOUR WAY!”
DR. SEUSS